When I first saw Jessica Robinson’s jewelry, I was blown away. She has managed to create a collection of fine jewelry that’s stunningly gorgeous, but doesn’t feel stuffy at all. Case in point, it was recently worn by Olivia Palermo in Elle, and Ms. Palermo is known for mixing the classic and the cutting edge.
And Ms. Robinson agreed to do a little interview here on JW – enjoy!
JewelryWhore: What drew you to the world of jewelry?
Jessica Robinson: I come from very creative parents, who I’m very close with, so my hands have been crafting clothing and jewelry from a very young age. My father is Renaissance Man, an educator for many years, who taught Biology, Biology in Spanish, all sorts of sports, plays the piano and many wind instruments, is a phenomenal painter and can rebuild a racecar in a day. My Mother hails from Puerto Rico and is a costume designer/maker who has her own Dance Theater in New York, called El Teatro Rodante Hispanico, which teaches young Latino children their native dances, she is also the cultural director for a company called Adelante. There was never a dull moment in the Robinson household, so there was no wonder that I’d follow in their combined footsteps. When I started my first jewelry line called MANTRA, 9 years ago, my father gave me all of his old tools and workbench from his workshop that I spent most of my developmental years playing in, from as early as 3 years old, I can remember sitting in his lap and him showing me how to solder.
I worked in fashion for 10 years before starting my line, so with the influence of such prestigious houses as Giorgio Armani, Calvin Klein, Moschino and Ralph Lauren, the daily experiences cultivated and tailored my opinion about jewelry, and how to see things differently.
Angel Wing Cuff Bracelet
JW: Did you study jewelry? If so, where?
JR: I studied at FIT, got my bench jeweler’s certification, 9 years later, at Studio Jewelers, in Manhattan, and then hauled west, to study with Alan Revere, in San Francisco, to perfect my technique.
Palm Feather Double Ring
JW: How long have you been designing jewelry?
JR: Since 2002, but my first “in store collection” was in 2004, called MANTRA, I was teaching yoga and very much into Sanskrit mantra, so wrote them on gold bangles, written in diamonds. Then, I won a design contest with a jewelry gallery in Soho (David Lee Holland), which my best friend secretly entered me into. I thought I was getting “punked,” when I received the phone call that they wanted my VERY small collection. I showed at his gallery for a year before I moved to SF, to extend my training.
Yellow Gold Pyramid Chainmail Necklace at Roseark
JW: What is your most treasured piece of jewelry (that you did not create)?
JR: I have four, that I desire, and one that I own. The desired are, the yellow gold armor ring (for the pinky) from Loree Rodkin, and her oversized segmented hamsa necklace. Then, the hand holding the faceted ebony sphere, from CASTRO, and this (very pricey, $2M) antique emerald necklace that the Kazanjian brothers were nice enough to let me try on once, pre Oscars, many years ago (pictured below).
The owned, is an antique Longines watch pendant, pistachio enameled and blanketed with diamonds, that I bought when I had just launched; dreaming that one day I would be able to make something as beautiful.
JW: What’s your favorite piece you’ve created?
JR: My angel wing choker is by far my favorite, second is the diamond garter, (I feel sexy when I wear it around my leg, and then when my husband takes it off me to wrap around his large bicep).
JW: Are you inspired by other designers? If so, who?
JR: Those who inspire me with jewelry are Loree Rodkin, Antonia Miletto and CASTRO, to start. I have always been inspired by Robert Lee Morris; (I can remember thoroughly inspecting and pacing his Soho store as a teen), Ambaji Venkateshwara Shinde, and Codognato are influencers as well. My current obsession is Delfina Delettrez, though; she’s such an artist.
Yellow Gold Moonstone Cocktail Ring at Roseark
JW: What do you think of Chanel’s famous quote “always take one thing off before leaving the house”?
JR: I think more is more; I almost trap my arm in the door, grabbing something, as I walk out of my apartment, daily. I can’t live without it! If Coco were alive today, she’d amend that statement.
Pyramid Cuff
JW: What 3 words would you use to describe Jessica Robinson jewelry?
JR: Innovative. Edgy. Heirloom
Galaxy Closed Cocktail Ring
JW: What do you have coming up that you’re excited about?
JR: I’m making a series of hand-carved ebony crowns; all framed, peppered and encased in diamonds, called “AVE DIANA”, it’s very fashion royalty-esque.
Jessica's workspace & inspiration board
Jessica at work!
Thanks so much to Jessica for the interview!
